Wednesday, 18 September 2013

Maria Grachvogel SS14 @ London Fashion Week

Yesterday was the last day of Fashion Week in London, and I attended the Maria Grachvogel Spring/Summer '14 show at the iconic Somerset House.

There had been many fantastic shows over the previous days (my favourites being Burberry, Mulberry and Alice Temperley so far, which I will post about later this week) so I was looking forward to seeing what Maria Grachvogel had to offer. Her show was the last at the BFC Courtyard Show Space, starting at 4PM, just in time for us to be in and seated before the rain started! This time last year, I was lucky enough to go to the Burberry SS13 show. I wasn't quite VIP enough for a seat there, but for this show we were on the third row with a very good view!

As the lights went down everyone fell silent, and a sweet bird twittering opened the show.

The collection is meant as an "expression of youthful innocence and creative freedom". Through soft flowing silks and abstract painted prints, Grachvogel "celebrates that sense of innocence and naivety." A feeling of girliness is conveyed through the skirts and flowing, rose-tinted, translucent silks, however masculine tailoring techniques hold back any idea of frivolous romanticism.

A "relaxed modern glamour is captured by wrapping the body". The soft drape of silk crepe and Egyptian cotton fabric is left uninterrupted by heavy embellishment; instead, abstract floral impressions are given centre stage. Some pieces featured light sequinning to "add a sense of rawness that is a perfect counterpart to the unembellished purity of the collection." In this sense, the collection is very balanced: there is minimal embellishment, but the drape and wrapping of the printed fabric provides shape and detail enough.

The floor length dresses were regal and strong, especially the closing 'Rose tint Artist Garden print' dress with it's billowing organza train. Throughout the collection were developing silhouettes, getting ever-more striking.

And finally, a photo of most of my favourite pieces from the collection together for the finale. I particularly liked the simple, shapely, draped sleeves and naturally subtle "aqua, plaster, putty and clay" colour scheme.
Thank you to Anoushka for inviting me to come along with her to this show. Quotes are from the show notes. Photos by me, Megan Doyle - please credit with a link back if you publish them elsewhere.

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